A Ghanaian Adventure from Accra to Kumasi
In August 2017, I embarked on an unforgettable journey from Accra to Kumasi. Accra is Ghana’s bustling capital, whereas Kumasi is the cultural heartbeat of the Ashanti Region. This journey revealed Ghana’s beauty and its people’s warmth.
This wasn’t just any trip—it was a mission to attend a research conference organised by the African Network for Evidence-to-Action in Disability (AfriNEAD), a network dedicated to African disability researchers like me, yours truly!
But what started as a professional endeavour quickly became a personal adventure filled with breathtaking landscapes, rich cultural experiences, and unforgettable encounters. The journey from Accra to Kumasi was a journey where friendly faces, cultural discoveries, and vibrant nightlife created a memorable African experience.
This bus ride from Accra to Kumasi was filled with scenic views I will cherish forever. The landscapes transitioned beautifully, showcasing rural Ghana’s charm.
Join me as I recount my bus ride from Accra to Kumasi, the vibrant nightlife in Kumasi, and the charming evening I spent in Accra with my friend Simon.
The Bus Depot in Accra: A Hive of Activity
My journey from Accra to Kumasi began at the bus depot, perfectly encapsulating the city’s vibrant energy. The depot was a hive of activity, with buses coming and going, vendors selling snacks and drinks, and passengers bustling about.
Street vendors weaved through the crowds, their voices carrying above the general hubbub as they balanced trays of fresh pastries and fruits on their heads.
The air was thick with anticipation and the sweet aroma of brewing coffee from nearby stalls. It was also filled with the sounds of chatter, laughter, and the occasional honk of a bus horn. Of course, it was a sensory overload, but in a positive way.
With each passing mile on the bus from Accra to Kumasi, anticipation built for the cultural experiences awaiting me in Kumasi.
I boarded a red bus operated by one of Ghana’s reputable transport companies. These buses are popular for travellers due to their reliability and comfort. The red buses from Accra to Kumasi are easily recognisable and are known for their punctuality, making them a favourite among locals and tourists. As I settled into my seat, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement for the journey ahead.
Meeting Gedeon: A Knowledgeable and Personable Travel Companion
One of the highlights of my bus ride from Accra to Kumasi was meeting Gedeon, a friendly and respectful young man in his 30s who happened to be seated beside me. Gedeon was a wealth of knowledge. He exuded a palpable enthusiasm for his country, brimming with rich insights into Ghana’s extensive history, vibrant culture, and dynamic political landscape.
As our bus wound its way through Ghana’s heartland, Gedeon proved to be an exceptional impromptu tour guide. The journey from Accra to Kumasi became a mobile classroom of sorts, with Gedeon sharing fascinating insights about each location we passed. With each passing town and village, he shared captivating anecdotes that brought the surroundings to life—telling tales of ancient kingdoms, the significance of colourful traditional festivals, and the proud resilience of the Ghanaian people.
The Majestic Aburi Botanical Gardens
Our first stop was the Aburi Botanical Gardens, a serene oasis located in the Eastern Region of Ghana, about 30 kilometres north of Accra. Gedeon explained that the gardens were established in 1890 by the British colonial government, initially as a sanatorium for colonial officials seeking respite from the tropical climate.
Over time, it evolved into a botanical garden, serving as a research centre for plant species and a place of relaxation for visitors. The gardens are perched on a ridge in the Akuapem-Togo mountain range, offering stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The cool, refreshing air and the lush greenery make it a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of Accra.
The Aburi Botanical Gardens span approximately 64.8 hectares and are home to a diverse range of indigenous and exotic plant species. As we strolled through the gardens, Gedeon pointed out some notable trees, including the towering Kapok tree, over a century old, and the Royal Palm trees that line the pathways.
The gardens also feature a collection of medicinal plants traditionally used by local communities for healing purposes. One of the highlights is the orchid house, which showcases a variety of vibrant orchids, adding a splash of colour to the verdant surroundings.
The gardens are a haven for plant enthusiasts and a place of historical significance. Gedeon shared that the gardens played a role in Ghana’s independence movement, serving as a meeting place for key figures in the struggle for freedom. Today, the Aburi Botanical Gardens are a popular destination for locals and tourists, offering a peaceful retreat where visitors can reconnect with nature.
The gardens provide a refreshing break from the urban chaos. It’s no wonder that the Aburi Botanical Gardens are often referred to as one of Ghana’s hidden gems.
The Vibrant Bead Market of Koforidua
Next, we stopped at the Koforidua bead market, a vibrant hub of activity in the Eastern Region of Ghana. Known locally as the “bead capital” of Ghana, Koforidua is famous for its bustling market, where local artisans sell beautifully crafted beads.
Gedeon explained that beads hold significant cultural value in Ghana. They are often used in traditional ceremonies, festivals, and rites of passage. They are not just decorative items but also symbols of status, identity, and spirituality.
For instance, certain beads are worn by chiefs and queens during important cultural events, while others are used in rituals to signify milestones such as birth, marriage, or even death.
The market itself was a riot of colours, with beads of every shape, size, and hue on display. From intricate glass beads to hand-carved wooden ones, the variety was astounding.
Gedeon pointed out that most of those beads were made using traditional techniques passed down through generations. Some beads were crafted from recycled glass, while others were made from natural materials like clay, bone, or seeds.
The artisans took great pride in their work, and each bead told a story, often reflecting the rich cultural heritage of the Ashanti, Ewe, and other ethnic groups in Ghana.
Gedeon explained how certain bead patterns were inspired by proverbs or historical events, making them accessories and a form of storytelling. I learned that the market is a social hub where people gather to trade, chat, and celebrate their cultural heritage. It’s a place where tradition meets commerce, and the vibrant energy is palpable.
The Koforidua bead market is more than just a shopping destination—it’s a cultural experience. It offers a glimpse into the artistry and traditions that make Ghana unique and on key spots on the way from Accra to Kumasi. Visiting this iconic market is an absolute must for anyone travelling through the Eastern Region.
The Historic Town of Ejisu
Our final stop before reaching Kumasi was Ejisu, a historic town in the Ashanti Region of Ghana, renowned for its profound cultural and historical significance. Ejisu is perhaps best known as the hometown of Yaa Asantewaa, the brave queen mother of the Ashanti Empire who led the famous rebellion against British colonial rule in 1900.
Gedeon narrated her story with great pride, explaining how Yaa Asantewaa, faced with the British demand for the Golden Stool (the sacred symbol of Ashanti unity and sovereignty), rallied her people to fight for their independence. Her leadership during the War of the Golden Stool became a defining moment in Ghana’s history, symbolising resistance, courage, and the unyielding spirit of the Ashanti people.
Today, her legacy is celebrated in Ejisu and across Ghana, where she is remembered as a national heroine and a symbol of female empowerment.
Ejisu itself is a town steeped in history, with its roots tracing back to the height of the Ashanti Empire. The town is home to several historical landmarks, including the Yaa Asantewaa Museum, which houses artefacts, photographs, and documents related to her life and the Ashanti resistance.
Gedeon explained that the museum is a must-visit for anyone interested in Ghana’s colonial history and the role of women in shaping the nation’s destiny. The town also features the Ejisu Besease Shrine, a traditional Ashanti religious site that offers insight into the spiritual practices and beliefs of the Ashanti people.
Beyond its historical significance, Ejisu is a vibrant community that continues to honour its traditions. The town hosts annual festivals and cultural events celebrating Ashanti heritage, including drumming, dancing, and storytelling.
Gedeon pointed out that Ejisu is also known for its skilled craftsmen, particularly in the production of Kente cloth, a traditional woven fabric that holds great cultural importance in Ghana. Kente’s intricate patterns and vibrant colours are a testament to the artistry and creativity of the Ashanti people.
Passing through Ejisu was a profoundly inspiring experience. As the bus passed through the town, I could feel the weight of its history and the pride of its people. Yaa Asantewaa’s story, in particular, left a lasting impression on me, reminding me of the power of courage and determination in the face of adversity.
Ejisu is not just a stop on the way to Kumasi—it’s a place where history comes alive, and the spirit of resistance and cultural pride continues to thrive.
For anyone travelling through the Ashanti Region, visiting Ejisu is an opportunity to connect with Ghana’s rich past and the enduring legacy of one of its most outstanding leaders.
Football Talk
Throughout the journey, Gedeon and I also chatted about soccer, notably how Ghana had fared in the African Cup of Nations (AFCON) and the FIFA World Cup. His passion for the sport was infectious, adding an extra layer of enjoyment to our conversation from Accra to Kumasi.
Gedeon proudly recounted Ghana’s impressive achievements in international football, which have cemented the country’s reputation as one of Africa’s football powerhouses.
Ghana has a storied history in the African Cup of Nations, having won the tournament four times (in 1963, 1965, 1978, and 1982). The Black Stars, as the national team is known, were pioneers in African football, with their early victories in the 1960s establishing Ghana as a dominant force on the continent.
Gedeon spoke fondly of legendary players like Osei Kofi and Abedi Pele, who were instrumental in Ghana’s success during those golden years. Abedi Pele, often referred to as one of Africa’s greatest footballers, not only led Ghana to victory in the 1982 AFCON but also inspired a generation of players with his skill and leadership.
Ghana’s success in the FIFA World Cup has also been noteworthy, especially in recent years. The Black Stars made their World Cup debut in 2006 and quickly became the pride of Africa. Under the guidance of coach Ratomir Dujković, Ghana reached the Round of 16 in their first appearance, a remarkable achievement for a debutant team.
Gedeon highlighted the contributions of players like Michael Essien, Stephen Appiah, and Asamoah Gyan, who became household names during this period. Essien, in particular, was celebrated for his tenacity and versatility as a midfielder, earning him a place among the world’s elite players.
The 2010 World Cup in South Africa was another historic moment for Ghana. The team, led by coach Milovan Rajevac, became the third African team to reach the quarter-finals, narrowly missing out on a semi-final spot in a dramatic penalty shootout against Uruguay.
Gedeon recalled the heartbreak of that match but emphasised how it showcased Ghana’s resilience and talent on the global stage. Asamoah Gyan, who scored crucial goals during the tournament, became a national hero and a symbol of Ghana’s fighting spirit.
Gedeon’s enthusiasm for Ghanaian football was so pronounced, and it was inspiring to hear him recount the triumphs and near-misses that have defined the Black Stars’ journey. From their dominance in the AFCON to their groundbreaking performances in the World Cup, Ghana’s football legacy is one of pride, passion, and perseverance.
As we continued our journey, I couldn’t help but feel a deeper appreciation for the role football plays in uniting and inspiring the people of Ghana.
The bus ride from Accra to Kumasi was not just travel but a prelude to the rich experiences I was about to encounter.
Arriving in Kumasi: Reuniting with Simon
Reaching Kumasi, I bid farewell to Gedeon, grateful for his companionship that had transformed a simple bus journey into an enlightening experience. After a long, scenic, and enlightening bus ride from Accra, I reunited with my friend Simon in Kumasi, who came to the bus depot to pick me up by taxi. Simon had arrived a day earlier for the AfriNEAD conference, and it was great to see a familiar face after my long journey.
I learned that Simon and a team of researchers at AfriNEAD took some time the previous day to visit the Ashanti King in Kumasi. I was pretty disappointed that I missed this opportunity to see the King and experience witnessing the associated cultural events, as that was the day I was travelling from Accra.
After a delightful bus ride from Accra to Kumasi, we immersed ourselves in the local cuisine, eager to try the flavours of the region.
However, Simon and I ensured that my disappointment vanished quickly. That’s one of the many reasons I’ll never regret having a friend like Simon in my life!
Kumasi is known for its rich cultural heritage, and we made the most of our time there by exploring the city’s vibrant nightlife. In the evenings, we would venture out to local restaurants, indulging in our favourite Ghanaian dishes.
One of the highlights was trying fufu, a traditional dish made from pounded cassava and plantains, served with various soups and stews. The flavours were rich and comforting, and it was a culinary experience I’ll never forget.
A Charming Evening in Accra: Local Music and Delicious Food
After the conference, Simon and I returned to Accra by air. We flew with PassionAir, a Ghanaian airline that offers nonstop flights from Kumasi to Accra. The flight was smooth and efficient, and we arrived in Accra in no time.
We spent the evening exploring the city’s vibrant nightlife. We dined at a nearby restaurant with a cosy bar and live music by local artists. The atmosphere was electric, with highlife music filling the air. Highlife is a genre of music that originated in Ghana in the early 20th century, and it was a treat to experience it live.
The restaurant served various local dishes, and we opted for jollof rice, a West African staple that is as delicious as iconic. The dish was flavourful and aromatic, with a perfect balance of spices. As we enjoyed our meal, we were serenaded by the soulful melodies of the local artists, making for a truly memorable evening.
Finding Affordable Accommodation and Dining Options in Accra and Kumasi
Plenty of affordable accommodation options are available for travellers looking to explore Accra and Kumasi. Platforms like Expedia and Hotels.com offer various choices, from budget-friendly guesthouses to more luxurious hotels.
These platforms are equipped with a wealth of user reviews and ratings, transforming the search for the perfect place into a seamless experience. With detailed insights and personalised feedback from fellow users, you can effortlessly uncover options that align with your unique preferences and budget, ensuring that your search is enjoyable and rewarding.
When it comes to dining, both cities offer a plethora of options. In Accra, Osu is a popular neighbourhood known for its vibrant food scene. Here, you’ll find everything from street food vendors to upscale restaurants.
In Kumasi, the Kejetia Market is a must-visit for food lovers. The market is one of the largest in West Africa and offers a wide variety of local dishes at affordable prices.
For nightlife, Accra’s Labadi Beach is a great spot to unwind after a long day of exploring. The beach is lined with bars and restaurants, making it a popular destination for both locals and tourists.
In Kumasi, the Prempeh II Jubilee Museum often hosts cultural events and performances, providing a unique opportunity to experience the city’s rich heritage.
Planning Your Own Travel Adventure from Accra to Kumasi
Getting Around
- Inter-city buses connect major cities like Accra and Kumasi.
- Domestic airlines like PassionAir offer quick connections.
- Local taxis and ride-sharing services are available in cities.
Where to Stay
While I can’t provide specific hotel recommendations, consider these factors when booking:
- Location: Stay near your main activities
- Budget: Ghana offers accommodations for all price ranges
- Reviews: Read recent traveller experiences
- Amenities: Consider what’s important for your stay
Experiencing Local Culture
- Visit traditional markets.
- Try local restaurants.
- Attend live music performances.
- Explore historical sites.
- Engage with friendly locals.
Key Takeaways
- Scenic Bus Ride: The bus ride from Accra to Kumasi offers a unique opportunity to experience Ghana’s diverse landscapes and rich cultural heritage.
- Cultural Insights: Travelling with a knowledgeable companion like Gedeon can provide valuable insights into Ghana’s history and traditions.
- Vibrant Nightlife: Both Accra and Kumasi offer vibrant nightlife scenes, with plenty of dining and entertainment options.
- Affordable Travel: Platforms like Expedia and Hotels.com make finding affordable accommodation and dining options in both cities much easier.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is the best way to travel from Accra to Kumasi?
The most popular and reliable way to travel from Accra to Kumasi is by bus. Companies like STC and VIP offer comfortable and punctual services.
2. What are some must-visit attractions in Kumasi?
Some must-visit attractions in Kumasi include the Manhyia Palace Museum, the Kejetia Market, and the Prempeh II Jubilee Museum.
3. Where can I find affordable accommodation in Accra?
Platforms like Expedia and Hotels.com offer various affordable accommodation options in Accra or Kumasi, from budget guesthouses to mid-range hotels, even throughout the route from Accra to Kumasi.
4. What is highlife music?
Highlife is a genre of music that originated in Ghana in the early 20th century. It is characterised by its upbeat tempo and fusion of traditional African rhythms with Western instruments. You can hear the rhythm across the country, from Accra to Kumasi.
5. What are some popular Ghanaian dishes to try?
Some popular Ghanaian dishes include fufu, jollof rice, and waakye (a dish made from rice and beans).
Final Thoughts
My bus ride from Accra to Kumasi was more than just a journey—it was an adventure that allowed me to experience the beauty and richness of Ghana’s culture and landscapes. It was a window into Ghana’s soul. This memorable bus journey from Accra to Kumasi has enriched my understanding of Ghanaian culture and its wonderful people.
Through Gedeon’s stories, the changing landscapes, and the warmth of everyone I met, I experienced the true essence of this remarkable country. Whether you’re a researcher like me or a curious traveller, Ghana offers a unique blend of history, culture, and hospitality that leaves a lasting impression on all who visit.
From the vibrant bus depot in Accra to the historic charm of Ejisu, every moment was filled with discovery and wonder. I highly recommend exploring Ghana’s heartland. Travelling from Accra to Kumasi revealed the stunning landscapes that define this beautiful country.
Reflecting on my journey from Accra to Kumasi, I realised it symbolised travel and a deep connection to Ghana’s heritage. This experience has taught me the importance of embracing the journey as much as the destination.
With its friendly people, delicious food, and vibrant culture, Kumasi is a destination that will leave you with memories to last a lifetime. Journeying from Accra to Kumasi reminds you of the beauty found in every step toward new experiences.
The memories of sweet evening breezes carrying the sound of local music and the countless stories shared along the way continue to remind me why travel is such a powerful way to connect with people and places.
As I boarded my South African Airways flight to Botswana, where I had lived for eight years until October 2022, I knew that my Ghanaian adventure from Accra to Kumasi had changed me in ways I continue to discover and had proved to be one of my favourite tours.
