I never expected that a business trip to Geneva in October 2019 would lead to one of the most memorable adventures of my life. Having travelled all the way from Botswana to Switzerland for work commitments, I decided to make the most of my Schengen visa and take a week off to explore a part of France I’d always dreamed about—Brittany.
This wasn’t just any ordinary tourist trip. I was finally reuniting with my dear friend Anne, whom I’d first met in New Delhi, India, back in 2002. After all these years, our paths were finally crossing again, and she had the perfect destination in mind: Saint-Malo, a historic fortress city perched proudly on France’s northwestern coast.
The journey unfolded like an exciting adventure. It began with a swift train ride from the picturesque city of Geneva, where the stunning views of the surrounding Alps made the trip all the more delightful.
As the train raced through the countryside, I marvelled at the quaint villages and lush landscapes that streamed by my window.
Upon arriving in Paris, I took a moment to soak in the vibrant atmosphere of the bustling station, which was filled with travellers and the aroma of fresh pastries wafting from nearby cafes. After a brief layover, I boarded another train that would take me to Rennes.
The anticipation of reuniting with Anne fueled my excitement as I settled into my seat, eager for the next leg of my journey.
At long last, the train came to a halt at the bustling Rennes station. As I stepped down onto the platform, my eyes immediately caught sight of Anne. She stood there, beaming with a warm smile that seemed to light up the entire area.
Clad in a cosy sweater that hinted at the crisp autumn air, she looked ready for the adventures that lay ahead of us. The excitement in the air was palpable as I approached her, knowing that this moment marked the beginning of our journey together, filled with possibilities and new experiences awaiting us.
The journey to Saint-Malo became an adventure, as Anne’s family had planned our trip using their comfortable caravan. Travelling with her three children and husband turned what could have been a simple drive into a delightful family expedition. The children’s excitement was contagious as they shared their favourite travel games and stories while Anne’s husband entertained us with historical facts about Brittany.
Fascinated by medieval history, the oldest child kept pointing out ancient churches and buildings along the way while the younger ones competed to spot the most interesting landmarks. These precious moments of laughter, impromptu sing-alongs, and sharing snacks in the caravan created bonds that would make our Saint-Malo experience even more special.
First Impressions of the Corsair City
Nothing quite prepares you for your first glimpse of Saint-Malo. As we approached the city, the massive granite ramparts rose before us like something out of a historical drama. Positioned strategically on the English Channel, this formidable city immediately shows why it earned its reputation as the “City of Corsairs.”
The timing of my visit in October proved perfect. The summer crowds had dissipated, leaving the cobblestone streets of the Intra-Muros (the walled city) more peaceful yet still buzzing with local life. The autumn air was crisp, carrying the salty scent of the sea, and the skies alternated between brilliant sunshine and moody clouds—typical Breton weather that only added to the city’s charm.
Having the caravan proved to be a blessing, as it allowed us to explore the region at our own pace. Between sightseeing adventures, we would return to our temporary home-on-wheels, where the children would eagerly share their discoveries of the day. Watching them act out stories of corsairs and pirates while their father added historical corrections with a patient smile brought a different dimension to my understanding of Saint-Malo’s rich heritage.
These moments, filled with simple joys like helping the kids with their holiday sketches or joining them in spotting boats from the ramparts, transformed what could have been a standard tourist visit into a profoundly personal experience.
A Walk Through History
The more time I spent exploring Saint-Malo, the more I realised this wasn’t just another pretty French town. Originally a Gallo-Roman settlement, the city became a fortified stronghold during the Middle Ages. But it was during the 17th and 18th centuries that Saint-Malo truly made its mark on history.
Walking along the massive ramparts, Anne’s husband, a local history enthusiast, regaled me with tales of famous corsairs like René Duguay-Trouin and Robert Surcouf. These weren’t pirates, he explained, but privateers commissioned by the French crown to raid enemy ships. Their exploits brought immense wealth to Saint-Malo, evident in the grand granite mansions that still line the streets within the walls.
Architectural Marvels and Maritime Heritage
The Saint-Malo Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Vincent) became my daily landmark as I explored the city. Its spire, rising above the granite buildings, helped me navigate the maze of cobbled streets. The cathedral itself is a remarkable blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, having survived countless conflicts, including heavy damage during World War II.
The Château de Saint-Malo, now housing the city museum, offered fascinating insights into the city’s maritime heritage. I spent hours examining naval artefacts and privateer exhibitions and learning about the city’s remarkable reconstruction after WWII.
Natural Wonders and Tidal Magic
One of Saint-Malo’s most captivating features is its extraordinary tidal range—one of the highest in Europe. I watched in amazement as the sea retreated hundreds of meters during low tide, revealing hidden pathways to the Grand Bé and Petit Bé islands. Anne timed our visit perfectly one morning, allowing us to walk out to the tomb of François-René de Chateaubriand on the Grand Bé island.
The timing of these tidal excursions is crucial—signs everywhere warn visitors about the rapidly returning tide. Watching the water rush back in, transforming the landscape entirely within hours is spectacular.
A Feast for the Senses
The culinary scene in Saint-Malo deserves its own chapter. The city’s position on the coast means incredibly fresh seafood is always on the menu. I still dream about the oysters we had one evening—brought in fresh from nearby Cancale, known as France’s oyster capital.
But it wasn’t just seafood that captured my heart. The traditional Breton crepes, sweet (crêpes) and savoury (galettes), became a daily indulgence. One particular creperie within the walls, recommended by Anne’s family, served the most divine crepes filled with local cheese and ham, washed down with artisanal cider served in traditional bowls called ‘bolées’.
Modern Attractions and Activities
The Great Aquarium of Saint-Malo proved to be an unexpected highlight. On a slightly rainy afternoon, we explored its extensive collection of marine life, including a submarine simulator that gave us a unique perspective of life under the waves.
Beautiful Beaches and Coastal Charm
Saint-Malo’s beaches are among its crown jewels, and I spent several delightful hours exploring them with Anne and her family. The main beach, Plage du Sillon, stretches for nearly three kilometres along the emerald coast. Even in October, the beach was alive with locals walking their dogs, children building sandcastles, and brave souls dipping their toes in the bracing waters.
What fascinated me most was how the beaches transformed with the tides. During low tide, the vast expanse of golden sand creates a stunning canvas dotted with rock pools where you can spot tiny crabs and various marine life. At high tide, the waves bring right up to the seawall, creating dramatic splashes that remind you of the sea’s power.
While the water was too cold for swimming during my October visit, I enjoyed watching the windsurfers and kite surfers who seemed undeterred by the autumn temperatures. The beach promenade, with charming cafes and ice cream shops, provided the perfect vantage point for admiring these water sports enthusiasts.
Maritime Adventures I Missed (But You Shouldn’t!)
One of my few regrets from the trip was not having time for a boat excursion, and Anne’s enthusiastic descriptions of these maritime adventures only heightened my desire to return. The boat tours from Saint-Malo offer various experiences that I’ve added to my must-do list for my next visit.
The most popular excursions include trips to the nearby islands. Boats regularly depart for the Île de Cézembre, a former military fortress that now serves as a bird sanctuary. Visitors can explore the island’s walking trails and enjoy its pristine beaches during summer. Another popular destination is the Île des Rimains, home to a 19th-century fort that is a testament to the region’s military history.
For those seeking shorter adventures, regular departures from the port offer tours around the bay, providing spectacular views of the city walls from the water. These trips, lasting about an hour, are particularly magical during sunset when the evening light bathes the granite ramparts in a golden glow.
More adventurous sailors can book longer excursions to the Channel Islands of Jersey and Guernsey. These British Crown Dependencies lie just off the coast and offer a fascinating blend of French and British culture. While I couldn’t fit this into my schedule, Anne mentioned that many locals make regular shopping trips to these islands, taking advantage of their duty-free status.
For wildlife enthusiasts, spring and summer boat tours offer the chance to spot dolphins and seabirds. Some tours even venture out to the Grand Jardin lighthouse, an iconic maritime landmark that has guided ships safely into Saint-Malo’s harbour for generations.
Hidden Gems and Local Secrets
Away from the main tourist routes, Anne showed me some of Saint-Malo’s lesser-known treasures. We explored alleged Corsair tunnels, now mostly sealed but still visible in certain basements within the walls. Local legends speak of buried treasures and secret passages, adding an air of mystery to our wanderings.
The timing of my visit coincided with the Quai des Bulles, Saint-Malo’s famous comic book festival. The entire city came alive with exhibitions, artist meetings, and special events – a modern cultural celebration in this historic setting.
Practical Tips for Future Visitors
For those inspired to visit Saint-Malo, here are my tried-and-tested tips:
Best Time to Visit:
- October proved perfect—fewer tourists, mild weather, and reasonable accommodation prices
- Spring (April-May) offers similar advantages
- Summer brings crowds but also numerous festivals and ideal beach weather
- Winter can be atmospheric, but expect strong winds and rough seas
Getting There:
- TGV trains from Paris take about 2.5 hours
- The city is well-connected to other major French cities
- Ferry services connect to the Channel Islands and the UK
- Driving allows exploration of the beautiful Breton countryside
Accommodation:
During my time with Anne’s family, I took the opportunity to explore various options for future visits to Saint-Malo and have continued to do so up to date, considering that I visited during the Covid period. A lot of things might have changed by now.
So, I have since primarily focused on the Abritel platform, part of the Expedia Group Portfolio of travel brands and is well-known in France for vacation rentals. If you’re considering a trip to this charming coastal town, I highly encourage you to begin your search with Abritel.
This platform offers a wide range of accommodations that cater to different tastes and budgets, ensuring you’ll find the perfect place to stay. With this platform, here is what you’ll likely get about Saint-Malo:
- Numerous hotels within the walls offer a historic atmosphere.
- Modern options are available in the new town.
- Plenty of charming B&Bs and guesthouses.
- Budget-friendly options are more prevalent outside the walls.
Use the Abritel search tab below (affiliate link) to start your search.
If you are searching for a delightful apartment in Saint-Malo, complete with breathtaking sea views that will take your breath away, or if you prefer a spacious family house perfect for creating lasting memories, Abritel offers a wide range of options to suit your desires.
Alternatively, if you’re considering options for accommodation in Saint-Malo, especially outside France’s borders, I highly recommend exploring the Hotels.com search engine below. Again, this platform is a highly reliable part of Expedia’s extensive network, known for its user-friendly interface and diverse selection of lodging. Unconvinced? Well, don’t take my word for it; try it here (affiliate link):
With Hotels.com, you can confidently find the perfect place to stay, ensuring a smooth and enjoyable travel experience. With its beautiful coastal scenery and welcoming atmosphere, Saint-Malo is the ideal place to find your next getaway.
Looking Back and Forward
The memories I cherish most from Saint-Malo aren’t just its stunning architecture or historical significance but the precious moments shared with Anne’s family. The children’s wonder at every discovery, their endless questions about my home in Botswana (well, I’m a Malawian by nationality, by the way, and Botswana happened to be the country of residence for employment), and their infectious laughter as we explored the city together added a layer of joy that no guidebook could have provided.
Their father’s knack for turning historical facts into exciting stories and Anne’s thoughtful insights about how the city had changed since her childhood gave me a perspective that went far beyond that of a typical tourist.
As I boarded my train back to Paris, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for this unexpected adventure. Saint-Malo had shown me a different side of France – one where history feels alive in every stone, where the rhythm of life still follows the tides, and where the spirit of adventure remains as strong as it was in the days of the corsairs. Without any doubt at all, Saint-Malo is surely one of the best tourist destinations in Europe, as well as, I would argue, in the world.
What started as a simple reunion with an old friend became a profound exploration of one of France’s most remarkable cities.
Saint-Malo isn’t just a destination; it’s a journey through time, a feast for the senses, and a reminder of humanity’s endless fascination with the sea.
Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a foodie, or seeking beautiful views and unique experiences, Saint-Malo deserves a place on your travel bucket list. Just be prepared – like me, you might plan your return visit before leaving.
When I return to Saint-Malo – and I certainly plan to – taking a boat tour will be at the top of my list. There’s something poetic about viewing this proud maritime city from the very waters that shaped its destiny. While I fell in love with Saint-Malo from within its walls, seeing it from the sea, as countless sailors have done throughout history, will add another layer to my appreciation of this remarkable city.
I wrote this article based on my visit in October 2019, just before the world changed with COVID-19. While some details may have changed since then, Saint-Malo’s timeless charm and historical significance remain constant.
